A Visit to Little Rann of Kutch

While most of my days this past November were filled with orientation sessions related to social justice, power and privilege, international development, and the like, we were occasionally treated to outside trips and activities that would help to further our understanding of Indian culture and history. The most memorable trip that we took beyond the ashram grounds was to Little Rann of Kutch, an enormous saline desert located in northwestern Gujarat. The desert covers almost 5,000 square kilometers, and transforms into a vast coastal wetland following heavy rains. Believe it or not, the area is most well-known for its “Wild Ass Sanctuary” — which is exactly what we traveled to Little Rann of Kutch to see.

The subspecies of wild ass which resides at the Sanctuary is highly endangered, and exists nowhere else in the world but Little Rann of Kutch. The Sanctuary has been listed by UNESCO as a biosphere reserve, and despite its harsh terrain, is home to a variety of wildlife. In addition to wild asses, the area boasts a smattering of migratory bird populations, as well as the Indian wolf and desert fox. In addition to spotting wild asses and a great many birds, we were fortunate enough to see wild nilgai, or Indian antelope.

It is believed that at one time, the saline deserts of Little Rann of Kutch were shallow sea. Now, this region of Gujarat is considered to be a transitional area between terrestrial and marine ecosystems. Salt panning and shrimp farming continue to be main sources of livelihood for local populations residing in the area, though the Indian government has discouraged the continuation of such activities due to risks of environmental degradation.  I’ve certainly never seen any place quite like the Wild Ass Sanctuary, and don’t know that I’ll ever visit anywhere like it again:

Safari Jeeps for Visiting the Sanctuary (The White-colored Ground Is the Salt!)

The Famed Wild Asses

Saline Desert Landscape

Fellows Goofing Off at the Sanctuary

On the same day that we visited the Wild Ass Sanctuary, we took a side trip to the Sun Temple at Modhera, which was constructed in 1026 AD. The temple was built in such a way that during the equinox, the dawn sun shines on Surya, the Hindu sun god:

For anyone visiting Gujarat, I highly recommend a visit to the Kutch region. Very cool indeed!

Namaste from India!

After various failed attempts at loading my blog, I have finally succeeded! I am currently in rural India, where I am writing to you from a village located in Ahmedabad district, Gujarat. I have been in India for almost seven weeks now, and am just about three weeks into my site placement at a grassroots NGO working on Dalit rights issues. Since I’m here as part of a fellowship organized by American Jewish World Service, I’ve been asked to refrain from naming the NGO I’m working with on my blog. I’m volunteering with an organization that deals with politically sensitive issues, so naming names could bring a threat of endangerment to the organization or its workers (at least that’s what I’ve been told, and it’s best to tread lightly when working in a foreign environment). So for the next 8 months, I’ll just have to refer to the place I’m working as “my NGO” or “the NGO I’m volunteering with.” Thanks for bearing with me!

Since I haven’t updated in a while, I’ve got some major backtracking to do. I’ll start with my first month in India, since that’s the easiest place to begin. I arrived to Ahmedabad in October, following a series of long and tiring flights. I’ve made many a journey across the world, but for some reason, my flight to India was particularly tiring. I’ve attributed this to the fact that I was so anxious about what was to come – would I like living in India for the next ten months? Was I going to get harassed by touts when I stepped off the plane? Were the other fellows going to like me? Was anyone going to be at the airport to meet me? Was my NGO placement going to work out? Since I was awarded the AJWS fellowship in April, a million questions had been swirling around in my head as to how this experience was actually going to turn out. Once I arrived and began to come to grips with the reality that India is finally happening, I felt like a huge weight had finally been lifted off of my shoulders.

And yet, after seven weeks in India, I still find myself missing China (and the US!). I try not to compare India and China too often, because I feel like it will only detract from my experience – sometimes, though, I just can’t help it. China and India have been declared the two next “rising giants” on the world stage, so I feel like it’s natural to weigh them against each other. The cultures are so different, though, that comparing the two can make understanding them that much harder. Judging from previous experience, I’m guessing that this comparison thing will pass as time goes by (I tend to attribute it to culture shock), and then things should get really interesting.

For the first month of my stay in India, the other fellows and I were living at Kochrab Ashram, located in Paldi district of Ahmedabad city. Kochrab Ashram is the first ashram that Mahatma Gandhi set up after his return to India from South Africa; it is from Kochrab Ashram that he first began to strategize his vision for the Indian independence movement. He later moved from Kochrab Ashram to a larger location, called Sabarmati Ashram, also in Ahmedabad; now, when tourists come to the city, they usually go to the larger Sabarmati Ashram to check out some of Gandhi’s artifacts (including a letter that Gandhi wrote to Hitler). That means that the Kochrab Ashram, while still lovingly tended, remains the more peaceful of the two – a perfect oasis set back from the bustling city roads. Besides the ashram’s residential monkeys and a local political gathering here or there, the only other occasional sites to be seen are now-elderly Gandhians who trickle in from the streets, dressed in handspun khadi, to study on the ashram grounds.

In true Gandhian style, the ashram is simple but adequate. The food we ate was all pure vegetarian, meaning that it did not include meat or eggs. (Note: in India, pure veg includes dairy; there’s little concept of veganism here). We became accustomed to bucket showers and squat toilets, the latter of which I had previously been regularly exposed to in China. Here are some photos of our accommodations:

Bedrooms, Holding Four to Five People per Room

Kitchen, Where We Held Cooking Lessons

Female Lodging Accommodations

Shower (aka Faucet/Bucket)

Bathroom (For Those Who Haven't Seen a Squat Toilet)

Kochrab Ashram Grounds

The "Gandhi Stage," a Meditation/Exercise Stage Where Our Classes Were Often Held

Luckily for me, the place I’m living now is just as peaceful as the ashram (if not more so). After a month of living a pretty basic lifestyle, I don’t know how easy it would be to adjust to the chaos of an Indian city. Of the fellows, I am the only one living and working in a rural area, which in some regards I think is much easier than living in an urban one. I don’t have to negotiate for rickshaws; my meals, while basic and lacking in variety, are healthy and provided for me; there is no pollution or garbage lining the streets; and I don’t have to worry about stepping in cow dung. Honestly, what else could I ask for?

Stay tuned for more updates from my rural Indian adventure!

Photos: Bangkok, Thailand

After concluding my whirlwind tour of Vietnam this past summer, I traveled next to the backpackers’ mecca that is Thailand.  The following are a couple of my favorite shots from Bangkok:

Thailand's Largest Reclining Buddha, Bangkok

Wat Pho is the oldest temple in Bangkok, and also the biggest.  It dates back to the 16th century and houses the country’s largest reclining Buddha, as well as the grandest collection of Buddha statues in all of Thailand.  Plated in gold and adorned at the eyes and feet by mother-of-pearl, this statue weighs in at over 15 meters tall and 46 meters long.

Temple of the Emerald Buddha, Bangkok

Wat Phra Kaew, known also as the Temple of the Emerald Buddha, is housed in the same complex as the Thai Grand Palace.  At a staggering 350 baht, the admissions fee is quite expensive in comparison with the general cost of backpacking in Bangkok; for US $12, though, it would be an enormous mistake to skip out on the breathtaking architecture that awaits within the temple’s main gates.  Wat Phra Kaew is considered to be the most sacred Buddhist temple in all of Thailand.

Lily Pads, Bangkok

Thailand is home to over 12,000 species of plants, as well as nearly 1,000 species of birds, 400 species of mammals, and 2,800 species of fish.  While not one of the world’s megadiverse countries, its biodiversity is nonetheless astounding.

For humorous anecdotes on traveling in Thailand and life in Bangkok, check out this blog, which I stumbled upon yesterday and have been obsessing over since.

Photos: Hanoi, Vietnam

Instead of bogging you down with another blog post about sightseeing in Hanoi, I’ve decided to share with you a few of my favorite photos from this summer’s travels to the Vietnamese capital:

Guarding Ho Chi Minh's Grave, Hanoi

While standing outside of the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum in Hanoi, I managed to snap this photo of a local Vietnamese policeman.  Much to my surprise, most of the security officials in charge of guarding the mausoleum didn’t mind having their pictures taken; indeed, they seemed to find the whole occasion quite flattering.

Hoa Lo Prison Guillotine, Hanoi

Taken at the Hoa Lo Prison (also known as the “Hanoi Hilton”), this image captures the brutality with which the French often governed those living under their jurisdiction during the colonial period.  Pictured above is one of many guillotines used by the local French government in Vietnam to execute political prisoners.  That being said, the Hoa Lo Prison was subsequently used by northern Vietnamese forces to hold POWs during the Vietnam War, many of whom were subjected to unbearable living conditions and torture.

The Streets of Northern Vietnam, Hanoi

My favorite travel photos to take are ones that capture the overall presence of a particular place and its people.  Modernized and yet distinctly Vietnamese, the pace of life in Hanoi is beyond frenetic – still, it has retained the down-to-earth, welcoming feel which has long characterized it in the hearts of world travelers.

Join me in my next post as I leave Hanoi and venture into the northern Vietnamese countryside!  Who ever said that traveling back in time isn’t possible?

Backpacking through Southeast Asia: Lessons Learned

After five weeks of traveling, I have finally returned to Guilin, China for another year of teaching university-level English and studying Mandarin Chinese.  As you may have noticed, I haven’t posted any new blog material recently; the reason why stands as only one of countless valuable lessons I have learned, both about travel blogging and about backpacking in general, during this summer’s adventures in southeast Asia.

In a nutshell, here is a compilation of my most recently learned travel lessons, especially useful for those thinking of embarking on mid to long-term backpacking excursions and to those who maintain active travel blogs:

(1) If you want to be a serious travel blogger, you must bring your laptop computer with you.

When I initially decided to spend this summer traveling, I concluded that it would not be wise to bring my laptop computer along.  After reading multiple backpacking and other travel resources, it seemed that almost all of the materials I had consulted consistently advised me against carrying such a large, bulky and valuable electronic item with me.  Besides, I have never felt the need to bring a laptop on vacation before now.  The reasons against toting a computer around the developing world are fairly obvious: computers are heavy and prevent you from traveling as lightly as possible, plus they’re expensive and could easily get lost, damaged or stolen.

Blogging from the Road: Bring Your Own Laptop!

I realized soon after beginning my travels, however, that hanging out in Internet cafes would not suffice as pertains to ensuring the upkeep of my travel blog.  For one, Internet connections are not exactly reliable in parts of southeast Asia – while in some areas Web access is simply too slow to create new blog material in a reasonable span of time, in other locations the computers are too old to feature any type of photo editing software.  This is not even to mention that in heavily touristed areas, such as the southern Thai islands or Bali, Internet use is heavily overpriced and becomes quite expensive when you’re logged on for extended periods of time.

So, my blog laid dormant for five weeks while I was experiencing the trip of a lifetime but finding myself largely unable to write about it.  Next time I embark on a journey of this kind, I will surely take my laptop along with me.  It may weigh down my backpack, but it provides a steady means of blogging in locations where the quality of Internet cafes is less than stellar, if such facilities even exist at all.

(2) If you’re hoping to capture some one-of-a-kind travel photos, consider bringing a digital SLR on vacation with you.

Like laptops, digital SLR cameras are bulky.  They are not nearly as easy to travel with as point-and-shoot, pocket-sized digital cameras.  At the same time, digital SLRs are more expensive than other, non-professional cameras; they are therefore more likely to get stolen, and more costly to repair in case of damage.

Nonetheless, the overall quality of photos shot with digital SLRs is greatly improved over less advanced camera options.  While it is one thing to write about your travels, it’s quite another to both write about and provide vivid photography of the places you’ve visited.  Not only do great photos enhance the quality of travel blogs, but they serve as an invaluable source of memories for the photographer who shot them.

For Stunning Travel Photos, Consider a Digital SLR

This trip, I brought a digital SLR with me and found it entirely worth the hassle.  If you already have a digital SLR, bring it with you – otherwise, what’s the sense of having bought one in the first place?  If you don’t have one but are looking for ways to enhance your blog or expand your artistic or horizons while traveling, explore the possibility of purchasing an affordable digital SLR; you may thank yourself afterward!

(2) Leave other, non-essential items at home.

After touting the positive aspects of traveling with your own laptop and a fairly large camera, it might seem a bit hypocritical to suggest that you should refrain from bringing too many things when backpacking.  After all, for those who don’t care much about blogging, a laptop is far from an essential item.  Likewise, those who aren’t interested in photography may balk at the idea of backpacking with a digital SLR in hand.  Nonetheless, even for those who do maintain a blog and are planning on lugging their computers and cameras around while traveling, it remains necessary to pack as few personal possessions as possible.

As any lightweight traveler knows, most items can be bought locally; there’s no need to pack five bars of soap or a gigantic bottle of shampoo when preparing for your travels.  Likewise, one to two pairs of shoes will suffice – in southeast Asia, unless you’re planning on clocking in a substantial amount of trekking hours, a set of flip flops will serve you just fine.  Throw in a few pairs of underwear, clothes for layering and any prescription medication you’re taking, and you should be about ready to go.  Nowadays, Western pharmacies and even some convenience stores carry small medical items, such as bandages, ibuprofen, and anti-diarrheal tablets – so unless you’re going to a rural or otherwise remote area, there’s very little need to cart around an entire backpack full of emergency medical supplies.

The bottom line: No one wants to look like they just rolled out of bed, but no one wants to lug around a backpack weighing 40 kilos either.  Leave extra stuff at home and accept that glamor may just have to wait until your trip comes to a close.

(4) To truly experience a place, you must open your heart and mind to it first.

Even in Less-than-Ideal Situations, Open-Mindedness is Essential when Traveling

It might sound cliche, but you can’t write about, photograph or even simply experience a place (foreign or otherwise) unless you first clear your mind of any conscious preconceptions that may be holding you back.  Inevitably, cultural biases will remain with us to a certain degree – that being said, it is essential to recognize those preconceived notions and make a concentrated attempt to overcome them.  Even within a sole geographical area such as southeast Asia, the cultural, social, political and religious differences among countries are vast; by failing to realize the limits of your own culture’s boundaries and accept other places and people for what they are, you are both limiting the authenticity of your experience abroad and potentially offending local populations.

While living in Guilin, I have come across countless foreigners who are unable to move beyond their own Western biases to truly appreciate the beauty and cultural depth that China has to offer.  Don’t let that be you: remaining as open-minded as possible is the key to any eye-opening, life-changing travel experience.

Over the next few days, I plan to begin writing about and reviewing the major locations I visited while backpacking through southeast Asia this summer.  From restaurants to monuments, nightlife to impressions of the locals, I hope that my insights will be of great use to those planning travel or simply interested in the region.  Stay tuned for updates!

Back from My Blogging Hiatus!

After an unanticipated but nonetheless exciting and productive vacation from the world of blogging, I’m back!  I’m not quite sure how it just so happened that I haven’t managed to write a post in quite a while – and yet, I have returned to fill you all in on the adventures that have occurred since my last post.

Classes have finally come to a close this semester, I have proctored my students’ final examinations, and I am now in the process of churning out their semester grades (which I’m sure they’re all tremendously excited to receive).  On our last day of class, I took a few pictures of my students that are definitely worth sharing here:

GXNU English majors are required to move from Guilin’s Yucai campus to one located in Yanshan, about an hour’s drive from the city, after their second year of study.  Yanshan is currently home to almost nothing but countryside, but Guilin’s major universities are transitioning their students there slowly in hopes of creating a sort of ‘college town’ nestled in between between already-developed Guilin and Yangshuo.  That being said, I’m not exactly sure when I’ll see this semester’s students again, and I will definitely miss seeing all of their smiling faces each week.

By the end of this week, I am required to turn in all of my students’ semester grades; in addition, I’ve got to take my Chinese final exams.  By Friday, though, I am officially free for the summer!  Next Monday, July 12, celebrates my 23rd birthday.  On July 15, my best friend from the States will arrive in Guilin and stay for a year; by July 16, she and I will be on our way to Southeast Asia for a six-week, mind-blowing  journey through Vietnam, Thailand, Malaysia, Singapore, and Indonesia.

Photos: From Skyscrapers to Farmland

The academic semester is coming to a close in a few weeks, and I am absolutely swamped with work.  Between teaching, editing papers, designing my students’ final exam, attending Chinese university classes, and spending time with my one-on-one Chinese teacher, I haven’t had much free time lately.  Lucky for me, my summer travels are starting in about a month and I am planning to head back to Hong Kong in two weeks to obtain a Vietnamese visa.  In lieu of today’s write-up, here are a few of my favorite photos from last month’s trip to Hong Kong, and a few more from my more recent rendezvous in Yangshuo:

Office Lights on a Saturday Night, Hong Kong

A Casual Weekend Stroll, Hong Kong

Pagodas and Mountaintops, Yangshuo

Farmers Living amidst Foreign Tourism, Yangshuo

I chose to post this specific series of photos because one of the things that has never ceased to amaze me about China is how the urban and the rural, the modern and the ancient, have coexisted here for centuries.  Within the space and time of one country’s history, there is so much geographical, economic, religious, political, and political diversity to be found.  The bulk of China’s population is still rural, and yet the country is home to some of the world’s most developed cities.  China boasts some of the most modern technology available, and yet its architecture and history stretch back thousands of years.

Let’s hope that with next week’s break for the Chinese Dragon Boat Festival, I’ll have less time to work and more time to relax!

Photo: Greetings from Yangshuo

A Local Roadside Vendor at His Finest

My boyfriend and I took this photo while bike riding through the outskirts of Yangshuo.  Yangshuo is located about an hour and a half away from Guilin, and is most known for its picturesque countryside and karst mountain landscapes.  In the fall, the fields become a brilliant mosaic of gold and brown; in the spring, they transform into a fertile shade of emerald green.

To see more of my photos from Yangshuo, click here.

Photo: Mist over the Mountains

Cloudy Mountaintops, Longsheng Rice Terraces

I captured this photo during last weekend’s trip to the Longsheng Rice Terraces.  Though sunshine offers comfort and warmth, overcast skies provide some of the most astonishing scenery and best photo opportunities when visiting southern China’s rural landscapes.

To view more of my recent photos from China, click here.

Celebrating the Chinese Holiday Weekend

Chinese Prayer Candles

Though it is Easter in the West, for millions of Chinese this weekend marks both a traditional ancestral festival and an important Buddhist holiday.  The 15th day after the Spring Equinox is the Chinese Qingming Festival, known in English as Tomb Sweeping Day; the 19th day of the second lunar month is the birthday of Guanyin, the Buddhist goddess of compassion and mercy.  This year, Tomb Sweeping Day falls on April 5, while Guanyin’s birthday was celebrated on April 3.

The history of Tomb Sweeping Day dates back 2,500 years, though its practice was suppressed by the Chinese Communist Party from 1949 to 2008.   On Tomb Sweeping Day, Chinese honor their ancestors by cleaning their tombs and leaving various offerings at family burial sites, including paper money, incense, food, flowers, and libations.  It is a time to celebrate the advent of springtime, and symbolizes the renewal of life.  This weekend, many of GXNU‘s students traveled to their hometowns to spend time with their families, tend to family graves, and enjoy the outdoors.

Guanyin is a Buddhist goddess revered in China for her kindness and fertility, and is generally thought to be a female interpretation of the Sanskrit bodhisattva Avalokitesvara.  She is considered to be a spiritual savior of sorts, and her symbolic role has been compared by Westerners to that of Christianity’s Virgin Mary.  On Guanyin’s birthday, devout Chinese Buddhists often visit local monasteries to pray.

Yesterday, a few friends and I went to one of Guilin’s monasteries to enjoy a vegetarian meal and see firsthand how Chinese Buddhists celebrate Guanyin’s birthday.  As I expected, the rituals consisted mostly of bowing, chanting, and lighting incense; perhaps the coolest part of the monastery is that it is built into the side of an enormous cave, so that the walls and ceilings are made of naturally-occurring stone.  My boyfriend also shot this striking photo of a Guilin local, smoking his pipe outside the monastery:

Guilin Local Relaxing at the Monastery

All in all, although neither Tomb Sweeping Day nor Guanyin’s birthday appear to be particularly exciting Chinese festivals, at least I can now say that I’ve learned about a few more of China’s most respected holiday traditions!