Chungking Mansions: Multiculturalism at Its Boldest

On Saturday afternoon, my boyfriend and I finally arrived at Chungking Mansions, one of Hong Kong’s most ubiquitous commercial and residential landmarks.  Constructed in 1961 and located in Tsim Sha Tsui, Chunking Mansions stretches 17 stories high and contains more guest houses than any other Hong Kong establishment.  In addition, the Mansions are home to low-cost curry restaurants, currency exchange kiosks, export packaging warehouses, and convenience stores carrying all shades of Middle Eastern and South Asian consumer goods.  Chungking Mansions houses some 4,000 people from all over the globe at any given time; though guest house accommodations are minuscule in size and provide only basic amenities, in all of my travels I have never visited a place quite like this one.  Whether looking for a cheap room for a night’s stay or purely seeking a one-of-a-kind tourist experience, a visit to Chungking Mansions is a definite must for anyone seeking to uncover Hong Kong’s true cultural charm.  In fact, TIME Magazine has rated Chungking Mansions as the world’s best example of globalization in action.

Despite the fact that I was still suffering from a (now mildly) serious case of food poisoning, I managed to devour an oversize plate of Pakistani food after dropping off my backpack inside the Mansions.  Wandering outside, my boyfriend and I were immediately confronted by street vendors of all colors and ages peddling every good imaginable, especially tailor-made suits and counterfeit watches.  As Hong Kong’s most densely populated island, Kowloon is wildly more compact and chaotic than any other tourist destination I’ve traveled to thus far.  Home to high-end fashion malls and dirt cheap bargains alike, the island is but a metropolitan jungle set in the midst of southern China’s sparkling natural landscape.

Cantonese-Style Dim Sum: A Hong Kong Specialty

Though I wish I could claim to have sampled some dim sum for dinner on Saturday night, my boyfriend I instead headed straight to the Spaghetti House, an American-Italian restaurant serving up the most authentic salad and pasta I have tasted in China thus far.  Authentic Western food is difficult to come by in Guilin – not only that, but the general dining atmosphere in Guilin is very unlike that which to which most Westerners are accustomed.  The Spaghetti House offers a wide variety of tasty options, as well as tomato sauce that is indeed not made from ketchup; mood lighting, soothing music, and quiet but friendly service are valued experiences which I don’t have the opportunity to enjoy all too often.  While most tourists come from countries far away to sample Hong Kong’s renowned Cantonese food, I certainly relished the chance to drool over the island’s Western specialties.  Hong Kong’s selection of fusion food and its unique take on traditional Western dishes provide an entire dining experience of their own.

One of Hong Kong Island's Countless Skyscrapers

Feeling nearly 100% health-wise, I took the Star Ferry across Victoria Harbor to catch a view of Hong Kong’s tallest skyscrapers by night.  As was to be expected, I was entirely breath-taken by the sheer scale of architectural development on Hong Kong Island.  Not only does the subway stretch under the harbor to link Kowloon with Hong Kong Island, but the buildings, streets, and even narrow alleyways all remain extremely well-maintained.  In my mind, comparing the New York City skyline to that of Hong Kong felt like traveling back in time – while I truly admire New York for a whole variety of reasons, its aesthetic power has surely been dwarfed by the magnitude of Hong Kong’s urban landscape.  Best of all, it never costs more than US$1 to ride the Star Ferry, a true value in one of China’s most expensive cities and a great excuse to enjoy Hong Kong’s coastal breeze.

On Saturday night, I fell asleep fully confident that the worst of the battle for a return to good health was entirely over.  I woke up the next morning slightly tired, but otherwise content.  Little did I know, I was in for an enormous surprise.

Don’t forget to read Parts One and Two of my “Backpacking to Hong Kong” series, and be sure to check back in a few days for the latest addition to the adventure!