Backpacking through Southeast Asia: Lessons Learned

After five weeks of traveling, I have finally returned to Guilin, China for another year of teaching university-level English and studying Mandarin Chinese.  As you may have noticed, I haven’t posted any new blog material recently; the reason why stands as only one of countless valuable lessons I have learned, both about travel blogging and about backpacking in general, during this summer’s adventures in southeast Asia.

In a nutshell, here is a compilation of my most recently learned travel lessons, especially useful for those thinking of embarking on mid to long-term backpacking excursions and to those who maintain active travel blogs:

(1) If you want to be a serious travel blogger, you must bring your laptop computer with you.

When I initially decided to spend this summer traveling, I concluded that it would not be wise to bring my laptop computer along.  After reading multiple backpacking and other travel resources, it seemed that almost all of the materials I had consulted consistently advised me against carrying such a large, bulky and valuable electronic item with me.  Besides, I have never felt the need to bring a laptop on vacation before now.  The reasons against toting a computer around the developing world are fairly obvious: computers are heavy and prevent you from traveling as lightly as possible, plus they’re expensive and could easily get lost, damaged or stolen.

Blogging from the Road: Bring Your Own Laptop!

I realized soon after beginning my travels, however, that hanging out in Internet cafes would not suffice as pertains to ensuring the upkeep of my travel blog.  For one, Internet connections are not exactly reliable in parts of southeast Asia – while in some areas Web access is simply too slow to create new blog material in a reasonable span of time, in other locations the computers are too old to feature any type of photo editing software.  This is not even to mention that in heavily touristed areas, such as the southern Thai islands or Bali, Internet use is heavily overpriced and becomes quite expensive when you’re logged on for extended periods of time.

So, my blog laid dormant for five weeks while I was experiencing the trip of a lifetime but finding myself largely unable to write about it.  Next time I embark on a journey of this kind, I will surely take my laptop along with me.  It may weigh down my backpack, but it provides a steady means of blogging in locations where the quality of Internet cafes is less than stellar, if such facilities even exist at all.

(2) If you’re hoping to capture some one-of-a-kind travel photos, consider bringing a digital SLR on vacation with you.

Like laptops, digital SLR cameras are bulky.  They are not nearly as easy to travel with as point-and-shoot, pocket-sized digital cameras.  At the same time, digital SLRs are more expensive than other, non-professional cameras; they are therefore more likely to get stolen, and more costly to repair in case of damage.

Nonetheless, the overall quality of photos shot with digital SLRs is greatly improved over less advanced camera options.  While it is one thing to write about your travels, it’s quite another to both write about and provide vivid photography of the places you’ve visited.  Not only do great photos enhance the quality of travel blogs, but they serve as an invaluable source of memories for the photographer who shot them.

For Stunning Travel Photos, Consider a Digital SLR

This trip, I brought a digital SLR with me and found it entirely worth the hassle.  If you already have a digital SLR, bring it with you – otherwise, what’s the sense of having bought one in the first place?  If you don’t have one but are looking for ways to enhance your blog or expand your artistic or horizons while traveling, explore the possibility of purchasing an affordable digital SLR; you may thank yourself afterward!

(2) Leave other, non-essential items at home.

After touting the positive aspects of traveling with your own laptop and a fairly large camera, it might seem a bit hypocritical to suggest that you should refrain from bringing too many things when backpacking.  After all, for those who don’t care much about blogging, a laptop is far from an essential item.  Likewise, those who aren’t interested in photography may balk at the idea of backpacking with a digital SLR in hand.  Nonetheless, even for those who do maintain a blog and are planning on lugging their computers and cameras around while traveling, it remains necessary to pack as few personal possessions as possible.

As any lightweight traveler knows, most items can be bought locally; there’s no need to pack five bars of soap or a gigantic bottle of shampoo when preparing for your travels.  Likewise, one to two pairs of shoes will suffice – in southeast Asia, unless you’re planning on clocking in a substantial amount of trekking hours, a set of flip flops will serve you just fine.  Throw in a few pairs of underwear, clothes for layering and any prescription medication you’re taking, and you should be about ready to go.  Nowadays, Western pharmacies and even some convenience stores carry small medical items, such as bandages, ibuprofen, and anti-diarrheal tablets – so unless you’re going to a rural or otherwise remote area, there’s very little need to cart around an entire backpack full of emergency medical supplies.

The bottom line: No one wants to look like they just rolled out of bed, but no one wants to lug around a backpack weighing 40 kilos either.  Leave extra stuff at home and accept that glamor may just have to wait until your trip comes to a close.

(4) To truly experience a place, you must open your heart and mind to it first.

Even in Less-than-Ideal Situations, Open-Mindedness is Essential when Traveling

It might sound cliche, but you can’t write about, photograph or even simply experience a place (foreign or otherwise) unless you first clear your mind of any conscious preconceptions that may be holding you back.  Inevitably, cultural biases will remain with us to a certain degree – that being said, it is essential to recognize those preconceived notions and make a concentrated attempt to overcome them.  Even within a sole geographical area such as southeast Asia, the cultural, social, political and religious differences among countries are vast; by failing to realize the limits of your own culture’s boundaries and accept other places and people for what they are, you are both limiting the authenticity of your experience abroad and potentially offending local populations.

While living in Guilin, I have come across countless foreigners who are unable to move beyond their own Western biases to truly appreciate the beauty and cultural depth that China has to offer.  Don’t let that be you: remaining as open-minded as possible is the key to any eye-opening, life-changing travel experience.

Over the next few days, I plan to begin writing about and reviewing the major locations I visited while backpacking through southeast Asia this summer.  From restaurants to monuments, nightlife to impressions of the locals, I hope that my insights will be of great use to those planning travel or simply interested in the region.  Stay tuned for updates!

Posted in China, Guilin, Internet, Learn Chinese, Photos, Southeast Asia, Travel Health, Traveling | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , | 3 Comments

My Trip to HK: Battling China’s Rules System

Skyscrapers on Hong Kong Island

About three weeks ago, I traveled to Hong Kong to obtain a Vietnamese tourist visa for this summer’s travels through Southeast Asia.  Though it’s possible to get a visa of this kind in Nanning, the capital of Guangxi province, I decided that Hong Kong would be a more interesting and exciting place to visit while waiting around for the Vietnamese consulate to process my visa application.  Considering that the last time I visited Hong Kong I came down with bouts of both food and sun poisoning along the way, I’ve long been waiting for an excuse to return to the former British colony.

As it just so happens, GXNU normally has a one-week study break in between the last day of semester classes and the commencement of final exams.  While a bit longer than the study period US university students receive, this break offers a chance to prepare for final exams, wrap up the semester’s activities, and prepare for move-out.  I decided about two months ago that I would delegate this end-of-semester study week towards securing my Vietnamese visa; since obtaining the visa requires me to travel and to wait around for my paperwork to be finalized, I knew that the task would take at least a few days away from Guilin to accomplish.

It sounds like the rest of the story should just fall right into place.  The situation was ideal: when my students were studying, I would get my visa.  By the time I was supposed to proctor their final exams and turn in their grades, I would already be back in Guilin, Vietnamese visa in hand and an amazing experience in Hong Kong under my belt.  Yet, from living for more than a year in China, I should have known that things are never quite that simple.

Tian Tan Buddha Statue, Lantau

Less than a week before I was scheduled to leave for Hong Kong, GXNU‘s administration decided that they wanted to scrap this semester’s study period and schedule an additional week of classes.  They cited the fact that spring semester is shorter than fall semester to justify their decision, reckoning that an extra week should be added to the academic calendar to make up for that discrepancy.  While I don’t think that their decision was an unreasonable one, to me the fact that the extra week wasn’t announced until one week beforehand seemed (and still seems) outrageous – after all, many teachers had already made out-of-town plans or had anticipated using that time to prepare for the semester’s end.

Facing no other choice, I decided to go to Hong Kong anyway.  I absolutely needed a Vietnamese visa, and wasn’t sure that I could count on any other block of time to obtain one.  After consulting with other foreign teachers, however, it remained unclear whether the administration would give me permission to leave Guilin during the newly scheduled last week of classes – one teacher said that I should ask them, but that they might not say yes; another said that I shouldn’t say anything, because they would definitely say no.  In the case that I asked the administration and they denied my request, I would be left without any means of getting into Vietnam; if I had gone anyway after they said no, I most likely would have been fired.  Facing no other option, I went to Hong Kong without telling anyone that I was doing it.

Now, it’s to be remembered that I rescheduled all of my class time, so that none of my students missed any material.  Not only that, but they preferred to have time during what was supposed to be their study week to prepare for their final exams.  Many of my students this semester are studying abroad for the next two years, and looked forward to the end-of-semester break to make preparations for their transition overseas.  In my mind, it was a win-win situation – I got to go to Hong Kong to get my visa, and my students got extra time to prepare for final exams and move-out without missing any in-class hours.

The View from Lantau

When I compare the American academic workplace to the Chinese one, I have found that working in China has so many more rules that no one seems to be willing to bend.  Finally, GXNU found out that I left Guilin without permission, and threatened to cut my month’s pay despite the fact that I didn’t miss any class time whatsoever.  Their reasoning was that I left without asking whether I could go; the problem is that if I had asked, they most likely would not have allowed me to leave.  If they had cut my pay, I would have received only US$110 to support myself through the entire month of July.

In the end, I escaped from the situation scot-free; however, I’ve found on multiple occasions while living in China that there is a whole system of rules and procedures which far exceeds anything I’ve witnessed back home.  While some of these directives are helpful, the majority of the ones I’ve been subjected to either don’t make sense or seem utterly pointless.  When asking why something can’t happen, the response is often: “Sorry, but those are the rules.”  For this reason, though I absolutely enjoy living in China, I don’t think I could ever live here for an indefinite amount of time – though there are plenty of expatriates who do.

Posted in China, Education, Guangxi, Guangxi Normal University, Guilin, Hong Kong, Traveling | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , | 1 Comment

Back from My Blogging Hiatus!

After an unanticipated but nonetheless exciting and productive vacation from the world of blogging, I’m back!  I’m not quite sure how it just so happened that I haven’t managed to write a post in quite a while – and yet, I have returned to fill you all in on the adventures that have occurred since my last post.

Classes have finally come to a close this semester, I have proctored my students’ final examinations, and I am now in the process of churning out their semester grades (which I’m sure they’re all tremendously excited to receive).  On our last day of class, I took a few pictures of my students that are definitely worth sharing here:

GXNU English majors are required to move from Guilin’s Yucai campus to one located in Yanshan, about an hour’s drive from the city, after their second year of study.  Yanshan is currently home to almost nothing but countryside, but Guilin’s major universities are transitioning their students there slowly in hopes of creating a sort of ‘college town’ nestled in between between already-developed Guilin and Yangshuo.  That being said, I’m not exactly sure when I’ll see this semester’s students again, and I will definitely miss seeing all of their smiling faces each week.

By the end of this week, I am required to turn in all of my students’ semester grades; in addition, I’ve got to take my Chinese final exams.  By Friday, though, I am officially free for the summer!  Next Monday, July 12, celebrates my 23rd birthday.  On July 15, my best friend from the States will arrive in Guilin and stay for a year; by July 16, she and I will be on our way to Southeast Asia for a six-week, mind-blowing  journey through Vietnam, Thailand, Malaysia, Singapore, and Indonesia.

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Environmental Protection and a Dose of Plagiarism

As you  may have noticed from my last post, this semester’s academic activities are winding down and will come to a close in a matter of just a few weeks.  Over the past couple of days, I’ve been working long hours to design my students’ final examination and provide teacher’s comments on their final writing projects, despite the fact that it is technically a holiday break.  This semester, I am teaching sophomore-level Writing for English Majors; for their end-of-the-semester assignment, I have required my students to write a three-page essay on one of four topics concerning global climate change and environmental protection.

In class, we viewed The 11th Hour, a documentary on the environmental crisis narrated by none other than Leonardo DiCaprio.  Knowing that my students adore him, I chose this film in part because I knew they would pay attention to it, even if only to see DiCaprio’s handsome features.  Last week, I collected the first page of their written assignment.  Not only did some of the students write in size 20 font despite my instructions to use size 12, but many of them hand-wrote their homework (again, despite my instructions that it should be typed) using minuscule, cartoon-ridden notebook paper.

Now, the issues mentioned above are minor ones that can be easily resolved.  However, one of the major roadblocks I have encountered since teaching in China is plagiarism.  It’s no news that China is rife with copied material – one of the stipulations of the country’s ascension to WTO membership was that it was supposed to take further measures to ensure the protection of intellectual property rights.  Nevertheless, it’s easy to find knock-offs of almost every famous designer product under the sun in China; students indiscriminately copy textbooks, and people of almost every age download music and movies from the Internet for free.

China's Biggest Educational Roadblock: Plagiarism

Considering this reality, it should come as very little surprise that I have caught multiple students of mine copying material from the Internet and attempting to pass off another author’s writing as their own.  Earlier in the semester, a student of mine stormed out of the classroom crying after I wrote on her homework that she would receive a grade of zero on that particular assignment as a result of plagiarism.  Though I have told my students again and again that I believe this kind of behavior to be unacceptable, some of them continue to do it.

Usually, all I have to do is go to Baidu and type in a few words from a student’s passage to find the exact source that the work came from.  Unfortunately, I don’t think that most students in China realize just how serious an offense plagiarism really is – despite the fact that my students all know that it’s morally wrong, here the punishment meted out for copying another’s work is quite weak.  On top of this, all of my students were taught in high school to learn through rote memorization, and most of them have not fully engaged in imaginative thought to the same degree American students have.  Therefore, brainstorming an argument in favor of environmental protection or food safety standards of their own volition can seem like quite a daunting task, at least for my students.

As a foreign teacher, I can only hope that the Chinese government’s strategy towards the protection of intellectual property changes sometime soon; perhaps if the country’s leaders show that they adequately respect the creative work of others, China’s students will learn to do so too.

Posted in China, Education, Guangxi, Guangxi Normal University, Guilin, Internet | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , | 1 Comment

Photos: From Skyscrapers to Farmland

The academic semester is coming to a close in a few weeks, and I am absolutely swamped with work.  Between teaching, editing papers, designing my students’ final exam, attending Chinese university classes, and spending time with my one-on-one Chinese teacher, I haven’t had much free time lately.  Lucky for me, my summer travels are starting in about a month and I am planning to head back to Hong Kong in two weeks to obtain a Vietnamese visa.  In lieu of today’s write-up, here are a few of my favorite photos from last month’s trip to Hong Kong, and a few more from my more recent rendezvous in Yangshuo:

Office Lights on a Saturday Night, Hong Kong

A Casual Weekend Stroll, Hong Kong

Pagodas and Mountaintops, Yangshuo

Farmers Living amidst Foreign Tourism, Yangshuo

I chose to post this specific series of photos because one of the things that has never ceased to amaze me about China is how the urban and the rural, the modern and the ancient, have coexisted here for centuries.  Within the space and time of one country’s history, there is so much geographical, economic, religious, political, and political diversity to be found.  The bulk of China’s population is still rural, and yet the country is home to some of the world’s most developed cities.  China boasts some of the most modern technology available, and yet its architecture and history stretch back thousands of years.

Let’s hope that with next week’s break for the Chinese Dragon Boat Festival, I’ll have less time to work and more time to relax!

Posted in China, Guangxi, Guangxi Normal University, Guilin, Hong Kong, Learn Chinese, Photos, Traveling | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , | Leave a comment

Guangxi’s Yangshuo: Must-See Countryside Scenery

Yangshuo's Countryside Landscape

About a week ago, my boyfriend and I accompanied a group of 16 students and 4 faculty from Virginia Polytechnic and State University (commonly known in the US as Virginia Tech) to Yangshuo (阳朔), a countryside jumping point and backpackers’ retreat located about two hours outside of Guilin.  As I have visited Yangshuo quite a few times previously, I knew exactly what to expect from the trip – that being said, I have yet to be let down by what the town has to offer.  Boasting some of the most exquisite scenery seen anywhere in the world, Yangshuo thrives off of both domestic and international tourism; to be certain, there is no shortage of foreigners in this once quaint town.  On the other hand, simply because there are more tourists in Yangshuo than other areas of Guangxi, it is also home to some of the best sightseeing, dining, and shopping experiences I’ve had since moving to China.

On Saturday afternoon, we traveled by bamboo raft down the Li River to Xingping, a historic and charming countryside town located only 39 miles from Guilin.   That night, we wandered along Yangshuo’s West Street and checked out the restaurant scene – much to my delight, I discovered Kelly’s Place, a Western lounge that serves the most delicious veggie burger I’ve ever tasted in my entire life.  The next day, we went on a relaxing 4-hour bike ride through the outskirts of Yangshuo; along the way, we stopped to take a peek inside the Yangshuo Butterfly Scenic Zone, a brilliantly lit stalactite cave and countryside viewing point.

The Striking Lights of Yangshuo's Butterfly Cave

Before returning to Guilin on Sunday night, we bought tickets to see Liu Sanjie, a light show performed only in Yangshuo that was directed and produced by acclaimed filmmaker Zhang Yimou (House of Flying Daggers).  70 minutes long and featuring over 600 performers, most of whom are members of China’s ethnic minority population, Liu Sanjie is a poignant display of Guangxi’s unique cultural heritage and a particularly moving showcase of Zhuang identity.

All in all, I’m extremely pleased to say that the visiting Virginia Tech students tremendously enjoyed Yangshuo and its surroundings.  When traveling through southern China, an up-close glance at the breathtaking scenery to be witnessed in Yangshuo is definitely not to be missed!

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Backpacking to Hong Kong: The Final Episode

Heading to the Shenzhen airport on Sunday to catch an 8pm flight back to Guilin, I arrived at the main terminal feeling nauseous and slightly tired.  Seeing as I teach at 8am on Monday mornings, I was nevertheless very excited to know that I would return to my Guilin apartment in time to get some quality shut-eye.  However, much to my dismay, I learned shortly after arriving at the airport that my flight would be delayed for an unknown amount of time.  Since my flight to Shenzhen just three days earlier was delayed an unbearable 16 hours, you can surmise that I was less-than-pleased to learn that my return flight would also be unable to leave as scheduled.

Airport Delays and Passenger Infighting in Shenzhen: Did I Sign Up for This?

At 3:30am, seven and a half hours after my planned departure time, my flight finally left Shenzhen for Guilin.  Due to poor weather conditions in Shenzhen, a multitude of domestic flights had been both delayed and cancelled, resulting in overcrowding and even a few serious scuffles at the Shenzhen airport.  After claiming my luggage and taking an hour-long bus ride back into Guilin, I managed to get to sleep just as the sun was peeking its head above the horizon.  I cancelled my English class to catch some rest and woke up at 2:30pm with small, unidentifiable bumps on my arms; figuring that they were just some sort of unknown rash that would disappear sooner rather than later, I didn’t give them a second chance and carried on with my day.

On Tuesday morning, I got out of bed to find that Monday’s rash had turned red and was beginning to itch.  By Wednesday, I had full-blown hives that were growing in both size and number.  They had covered my arms, chest, hands, and feet completely; to make matters worse, regular breathing had become quite difficult.  On Thursday, my face had swollen and was beginning to resemble a tomato.  Unable to determine for certain the cause of the hives or to treat them myself, I finally rushed to Guilin’s No. 4 People’s Hospital to seek treatment.

Much to my surprise, the visit to the hospital was quick and convenient; in twenty minutes time, I had seen a doctor, received prescriptions for antibiotics and anti-itch cream, and successfully purchased both medications at an exceedingly cheap price.  Next, I was hooked up to an hour-long IV drip – having never experienced a transfusion of any kind before, I was a bit taken aback at the thought of receiving an IV for an allergic reaction.  Nonetheless, Chinese doctors prescribe IVs much more frequently than American doctors do, so I trusted that the medical professional I had seen used his best judgment when deciding on my treatment.

The next day, my health had deteriorated quite a bit and the severity of my allergic reaction was almost intolerable.  No longer itchy, my hives had become painful and hot to the touch.  Afraid that I could no longer rely on Guilin’s local doctors to adequately treat the illness, my boyfriend called his family medical professional in the US to explain what I had been going through.  Within a half hour’s time, he had prescribed prednisone, an immunosuppressant used to treat serious inflammation.  We bought 100 pills for approximately US$0.60 at the nearest pharmacy; one week later, my hives had disappeared, not withstanding some minor scarring.

Moral of the Story: Read Medicine Labels Carefully, and Wear Sunscreen!

All in all, it turns out that I had taken a sulfa drug while in Shenzhen to cure my earlier bout of food poisoning.  Not knowing that the medicine listed sulfa as an ingredient, I took it for over three days despite the fact that I have been allergic to sulfa since I was a child.  My boyfriend had indeed told the pharmacist that I was unable to take drugs containing sulfa, but it seems that the pharmacist didn’t know the contents of the products she was selling.  The allergy didn’t manifest itself until after I spent a day sightseeing and soaking up the sun in Hong Kong; the end product turned out to be a severe case of phototoxicity.

Despite all the bumps in the road along the way, the chance to experience Hong Kong was one I’ll never forget.  My recent bouts with common but preventable illnesses have reminded me of just how important it is to take any and all necessary health precautions when traveling abroad.  Seeing as my summer journey through Vietnam, Thailand, Malaysia, Singapore, and Indonesia will begin in less than a month and a half, this past trip to Hong Kong has indeed provided me with a certifiable wake-up call!

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Photos: Guilin’s Chuan Shan

This week, I’ve had the opportunity to explore some of Guilin‘s lesser-traveled countryside and little-visited peaks.  One of the advantages of actually living in China is that with time, I’ve managed to learn about and explore sites that have heretofore remained unlisted in international travel guides.  Here are a few of my favorite photos from this week’s meanderings:

Countryside among the City, Guilin

One of my favorite aspects of Guilin is the fact that inside the city, it’s still possible to find pockets of countryside.  Guangxi is one of China’s most farming-rich regions, and Guilin is a young and developing city; therefore, it’s not unusual to find white-collar workers and rice farmers living side by side.

Peacock Displaying His Plumes, Chuan Shan, Guilin

Chuan Shan is a mountain located in the south of Guilin that borders the eastern flank of the Li River.  Little visited except by locals living close by, Chuan Shan is home to traditionally styled pagodas, fragrant tree life, picturesque reflection pools, and brilliantly colored peacocks.

City View from Chuan Shan, Guilin

The view from Chuan Shan reveals Guilin’s natural beauty.  Surrounded by a backdrop of karst peaks, Guilin’s green space is highlighted by farmland and an abundance of osmanthus trees.  From Chuan Shan, the Shou Fo Pagoda, constructed during the Ming dynasty (1368-1644), is most visible.

Be sure to check back later in the week for my next post, which will conclude my “Backpacking to Hong Kong” saga once and for all!

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Backpacking to Hong Kong: Part Four

After exploring both Kowloon and Hong Kong Island on Saturday, I woke up on Sunday morning to perfect sunshine and improved health.  Ecstatic that I had at last won my battle with food poisoning, I headed across the harbor in search of an authentic Western breakfast.  Rambling along Hong Kong Island’s alleyways and peeking in bakery windows, I finally entered a small cafe and ordered a bagel with cream cheese.  Enjoying the morning scenery, I sipped a tall glass of fresh-squeezed orange juice and soaked in the view of passersby strolling down Hong Kong’s narrow lanes.

Now stuffed, I sat for a few minutes browsing the Internet.  It struck me then that although Hong Kong is technically part of China, it is not subject to any of the cyberspace restrictions currently gripping the mainland.  Amazed by how quickly and easily I could search the web, I logged onto Facebook and YouTube simply because I could.  For a minute, I felt the sensation of uninhibited access to information – I had forgotten what that kind of freedom felt like, and had tacitly accepted Chinese Internet censorship as a daily norm.

Soho: Colonial Charm with a Modern Feel

Nonetheless, I knew that I hadn’t come all the way to Hong Kong to spend my time on the computer.  So, I slowly made my way back outside and meandered the streets of Hong Kong’s well-preserved Soho district.  Home to mid- to high-end shops and boutiques, most of the items for sale in Soho are out of my price range.  Nonetheless, Soho tops the list as one of the island’s most charming shopping and dining zones; even for those on a tight budget, Soho has much to offer.  Its less-traveled side streets are home to  a variety of little-known bargains, and its bars and nightclubs are some of the most vivacious and eclectic in Hong Kong.

Crossing back over to Kowloon, my boyfriend and I walked along Hong Kong’s Avenue of Stars and admired the hand prints of a few of China’s most famous actors, including Jet Li and Jackie Chan.  Afterwards, we had the opportunity to witness an event that neither of us have ever witnessed on the Chinese mainland – a political demonstration.

In 1999, the Chinese government banned the practice of Falun Gong and began a nationwide campaign to weed out its followers.  Founded in 1992, Falun Gong is a series of meditative practices and spiritual exercises that has incorporated and synthesized elements from both the Buddhist and Taoist belief systems.  Falun Gong has adopted the focus on energy movement that characterizes Chinese qi gong, and places a high emphasis on the tenets of morality and compassion.  Throughout the 1990s, the practice of Falun Gong grew in popularity both on the Chinese mainland and throughout the rest of Asia; by the turn of the century, however, Beijing had labeled the movement as a cult and denounced it as a force for social instability.  International reports of mistreatment, harassment, arbitrary arrest, and torture of Falun Gong believers have been surfacing ever since.

In Hong Kong, my boyfriend and I encountered Falun Gong followers protesting the harsh actions of the Chinese government through silent meditation and media campaigning.  In addition, we viewed full-size information panels condemning the CCP for its role in the Tiananmen Square massacre of 1989 and in perpetrating violent political crimes during the upheaval of the Cultural Revolution:

Tiananmen Square Massacre, 1989

The Legacy of China's Cultural Revolution

As a mainland resident, I can’t even imagine seeing anything of this nature posted in public in China proper.  Not only would this kind of information be promptly disposed of by a local security official, but any citizen who chose to display such beliefs would swiftly be castigated.  In a country that does not place much value on the freedom of expression or right to information access of its citizens, the ability to challenge the government’s official history is not open to the public.  To say the least, I was surprised and even proud to see such an open display of criticism leveled directly against the Chinese government – not firstly because of my personal views of the CCP, but because of a deep-rooted conviction in favor of unrestricted freedom of speech.

Around 5pm, I headed back to Shenzhen to catch an 8pm flight to Guilin.  On the subway ride to the Chinese border, I began to feel lightheaded and nauseous – believing that I was simply suffering from motion sickness, I thought that my health would be just fine once I stepped off the subway car.  It was not until two days later that I would realize I had begun to experience the primary stages of phototoxicity.

The story may be almost over, but it’s not done yet!  Just when I thought I was on my way back to Guilin in the best of health, I was about to enter my longest and most serious health battle in China yet.  You thought food poisoning was bad?  Think again!  Stay tuned for the next addition to my “Backpacking to Hong Kong” saga.

Posted in China, Food, Hong Kong, Human Rights, Internet, Politics, Traveling | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , | 3 Comments

Backpacking to Hong Kong: Part Three

Chungking Mansions: Multiculturalism at Its Boldest

On Saturday afternoon, my boyfriend and I finally arrived at Chungking Mansions, one of Hong Kong’s most ubiquitous commercial and residential landmarks.  Constructed in 1961 and located in Tsim Sha Tsui, Chunking Mansions stretches 17 stories high and contains more guest houses than any other Hong Kong establishment.  In addition, the Mansions are home to low-cost curry restaurants, currency exchange kiosks, export packaging warehouses, and convenience stores carrying all shades of Middle Eastern and South Asian consumer goods.  Chungking Mansions houses some 4,000 people from all over the globe at any given time; though guest house accommodations are minuscule in size and provide only basic amenities, in all of my travels I have never visited a place quite like this one.  Whether looking for a cheap room for a night’s stay or purely seeking a one-of-a-kind tourist experience, a visit to Chungking Mansions is a definite must for anyone seeking to uncover Hong Kong’s true cultural charm.  In fact, TIME Magazine has rated Chungking Mansions as the world’s best example of globalization in action.

Despite the fact that I was still suffering from a (now mildly) serious case of food poisoning, I managed to devour an oversize plate of Pakistani food after dropping off my backpack inside the Mansions.  Wandering outside, my boyfriend and I were immediately confronted by street vendors of all colors and ages peddling every good imaginable, especially tailor-made suits and counterfeit watches.  As Hong Kong’s most densely populated island, Kowloon is wildly more compact and chaotic than any other tourist destination I’ve traveled to thus far.  Home to high-end fashion malls and dirt cheap bargains alike, the island is but a metropolitan jungle set in the midst of southern China’s sparkling natural landscape.

Cantonese-Style Dim Sum: A Hong Kong Specialty

Though I wish I could claim to have sampled some dim sum for dinner on Saturday night, my boyfriend I instead headed straight to the Spaghetti House, an American-Italian restaurant serving up the most authentic salad and pasta I have tasted in China thus far.  Authentic Western food is difficult to come by in Guilin – not only that, but the general dining atmosphere in Guilin is very unlike that which to which most Westerners are accustomed.  The Spaghetti House offers a wide variety of tasty options, as well as tomato sauce that is indeed not made from ketchup; mood lighting, soothing music, and quiet but friendly service are valued experiences which I don’t have the opportunity to enjoy all too often.  While most tourists come from countries far away to sample Hong Kong’s renowned Cantonese food, I certainly relished the chance to drool over the island’s Western specialties.  Hong Kong’s selection of fusion food and its unique take on traditional Western dishes provide an entire dining experience of their own.

One of Hong Kong Island's Countless Skyscrapers

Feeling nearly 100% health-wise, I took the Star Ferry across Victoria Harbor to catch a view of Hong Kong’s tallest skyscrapers by night.  As was to be expected, I was entirely breath-taken by the sheer scale of architectural development on Hong Kong Island.  Not only does the subway stretch under the harbor to link Kowloon with Hong Kong Island, but the buildings, streets, and even narrow alleyways all remain extremely well-maintained.  In my mind, comparing the New York City skyline to that of Hong Kong felt like traveling back in time – while I truly admire New York for a whole variety of reasons, its aesthetic power has surely been dwarfed by the magnitude of Hong Kong’s urban landscape.  Best of all, it never costs more than US$1 to ride the Star Ferry, a true value in one of China’s most expensive cities and a great excuse to enjoy Hong Kong’s coastal breeze.

On Saturday night, I fell asleep fully confident that the worst of the battle for a return to good health was entirely over.  I woke up the next morning slightly tired, but otherwise content.  Little did I know, I was in for an enormous surprise.

Don’t forget to read Parts One and Two of my “Backpacking to Hong Kong” series, and be sure to check back in a few days for the latest addition to the adventure!

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